<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE article PUBLIC "-//NLM//DTD JATS (Z39.96) Journal Publishing DTD v1.3 20210610//EN" "JATS-journalpublishing1-3.dtd">
<article article-type="research-article" dtd-version="1.3" xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xml:lang="en"><front><journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher-id">nsc</journal-id><journal-title-group><journal-title xml:lang="en">Archaeology, Ethnology &amp; Anthropology of Eurasia</journal-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="ru"><trans-title>Археология, этнография и антропология Евразии</trans-title></trans-title-group></journal-title-group><issn pub-type="ppub">1563-0110</issn><publisher><publisher-name>IAET SB RAS</publisher-name></publisher></journal-meta><article-meta><article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.17746/1563-0110.2021.49.1.101-107</article-id><article-id custom-type="elpub" pub-id-type="custom">nsc-1165</article-id><article-categories><subj-group subj-group-type="heading"><subject>Research Article</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="en"><subject>THE METAL AGES AND MEDIEVAL PERIOD</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="ru"><subject>ЭПОХА ПАЛЕОМЕТАЛЛА</subject></subj-group></article-categories><title-group><article-title>The Use of Natural Scientific Methods in the Study of Leather Items from Archaeological Excavations</article-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="ru"><trans-title></trans-title></trans-title-group></title-group><contrib-group><contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes"><contrib-id contrib-id-type="orcid">https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2486-2110</contrib-id><name-alternatives><name name-style="western" xml:lang="en"><surname>Osipov</surname><given-names>D. O.</given-names></name></name-alternatives><bio xml:lang="en"><p>Researcher</p><p>Krasnaya pl. 1, Moscow, 109012, Russia</p></bio><email xlink:type="simple">dmitriyosipov@mail.ru</email><xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff-1"/></contrib></contrib-group><aff-alternatives id="aff-1"><aff xml:lang="en">State Historical Museum<country>Russian Federation</country></aff></aff-alternatives><pub-date pub-type="collection"><year>2021</year></pub-date><pub-date pub-type="epub"><day>15</day><month>04</month><year>2021</year></pub-date><volume>49</volume><issue>1</issue><fpage>101</fpage><lpage>107</lpage><permissions><copyright-statement>Copyright &amp;#x00A9; Osipov D.O., 2021</copyright-statement><copyright-year>2021</copyright-year><copyright-holder xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O.</copyright-holder><copyright-holder xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O.</copyright-holder><license license-type="creative-commons-attribution" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/" xlink:type="simple"><license-p>This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.</license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://journal.archaeology.nsc.ru/jour/article/view/1165">https://journal.archaeology.nsc.ru/jour/article/view/1165</self-uri><abstract><p>This article outlines the results of analyses of footwear and other late medieval and recent leather items. Orthopedic diagnostics are used to assess an early 18th-century woman’s shoe from the historic center of Kaluga. The insole, made of tightly fitted cords, suggests that the shoe had a corrective function. Infrared spectroscopy and liquid chromatography were used to analyze the leather of which the quiver found during the excavations in Moscow was made, and to evaluate the technique whereby its surface was processed. Natural scientific methods were used to study the various types of leather and threads, and to reconstruct the decorative techniques. Leather footwear from the medieval town of Galich, near Kostroma, is compared to that from other Central Russian towns, revealing local variations in footwear and the distribution areas of its types. It is concluded that natural scientific methods are helpful in the study of such finds.</p></abstract><kwd-group xml:lang="en"><kwd>History of costume</kwd><kwd>leather processing</kwd><kwd>footwear manufacture</kwd><kwd>archaeological finds</kwd><kwd>analytical methods</kwd><kwd>interpretation</kwd><kwd>multidisciplinary approach</kwd></kwd-group></article-meta></front><back><ref-list><title>References</title><ref id="cit1"><label>1</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Bobrov L.A., Hudiakov Y.S. 2008. Vooruzheniye i taktika kochevnikov Tsentralnoi Azii i Yuzhnoi Sibiri v epokhu pozdnego Srednevekoviya i rannego Novogo vremeni (XV – pervaya polovina XVIII v.). St. Petersburg: Filologicheskiy fakultet SPb Gos. Univ.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Bobrov L.A., Hudiakov Y.S. 2008. Vooruzheniye i taktika kochevnikov Tsentralnoi Azii i Yuzhnoi Sibiri v epokhu pozdnego Srednevekoviya i rannego Novogo vremeni (XV – pervaya polovina XVIII v.). St. Petersburg: Filologicheskiy fakultet SPb Gos. Univ.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit2"><label>2</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Cameron Е. 2000. Sheaths and Scabbards in England. Oxford: BAR. Etnograﬁya russkogo krestyanstva Sibiri XVII – serediny XIX v. 1981 V.A. Aleksandrov (ed.). Moscow: Nauka.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Cameron Е. 2000. Sheaths and Scabbards in England. Oxford: BAR. Etnograﬁya russkogo krestyanstva Sibiri XVII – serediny XIX v. 1981 V.A. Aleksandrov (ed.). Moscow: Nauka.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit3"><label>3</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Folks C. 2006. Srednevekovye dospekhi. Mastera oruzheinogo dela. Moscow: Tsentrpoligraf.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Folks C. 2006. Srednevekovye dospekhi. Mastera oruzheinogo dela. Moscow: Tsentrpoligraf.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit4"><label>4</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Fossier R. 2010. Lyudi Srednevekoviya. (Transl. from French by A.Y. Karachinsky). St. Petersburg: Evraziya.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Fossier R. 2010. Lyudi Srednevekoviya. (Transl. from French by A.Y. Karachinsky). St. Petersburg: Evraziya.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit5"><label>5</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Galkin A.V., Trepalina E. 2018. Opredeleniye vidovoi prinadlezhnosti. Myasnoi ryad, No. 1 (71): 36.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Galkin A.V., Trepalina E. 2018. Opredeleniye vidovoi prinadlezhnosti. Myasnoi ryad, No. 1 (71): 36.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit6"><label>6</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Gorsky A.A. 2003. Moskva i Orda. Moscow: Nauka.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Gorsky A.A. 2003. Moskva i Orda. Moscow: Nauka.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit7"><label>7</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Kabatov S.A. 2006 Kozhevennoye remeslo Kostromskogo Povolzhiya XIII–XVII vv. Vestnik Kostromskoi arkheologicheskoi ekspeditsii, iss. 2: 70–84.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Kabatov S.A. 2006 Kozhevennoye remeslo Kostromskogo Povolzhiya XIII–XVII vv. Vestnik Kostromskoi arkheologicheskoi ekspeditsii, iss. 2: 70–84.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit8"><label>8</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Kabatov S.A. 2011. Pamyatnik russkogo srednevekoviya Kostromskogo Povolzhiya – selishche Vezhi. In Arkheologiya Podmoskoviya: Materialy nauch. Seminara, iss. 7. Moscow: IA RAN, pp. 222–248.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Kabatov S.A. 2011. Pamyatnik russkogo srednevekoviya Kostromskogo Povolzhiya – selishche Vezhi. In Arkheologiya Podmoskoviya: Materialy nauch. Seminara, iss. 7. Moscow: IA RAN, pp. 222–248.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit9"><label>9</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Kurbatov A.V., Minchenko N.L. 2013. Bolezni srednevekovykh gorozhan (analiz arkheologicheskoi kozhanoi obuvi). In Moda i dizain: istoricheskiy opyt – novye tekhnologii: Materialy XVI Mezhdunar. nauch. konf. St. Petersburg, pp. 32–36.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Kurbatov A.V., Minchenko N.L. 2013. Bolezni srednevekovykh gorozhan (analiz arkheologicheskoi kozhanoi obuvi). In Moda i dizain: istoricheskiy opyt – novye tekhnologii: Materialy XVI Mezhdunar. nauch. konf. St. Petersburg, pp. 32–36.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit10"><label>10</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Lazarev A.S., Osipov D.O. 2020. Kollektsiya obuvnykh detalei i drugikh kozhanykh izdeliy iz raskopok Torgovykh ryadov v Kostrome v 2017–2018 gg. In Arkheologiya Podmoskoviya: Materialy nauch. Seminara, iss. 16. Moscow: IA RAN, pp. 312–321.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Lazarev A.S., Osipov D.O. 2020. Kollektsiya obuvnykh detalei i drugikh kozhanykh izdeliy iz raskopok Torgovykh ryadov v Kostrome v 2017–2018 gg. In Arkheologiya Podmoskoviya: Materialy nauch. Seminara, iss. 16. Moscow: IA RAN, pp. 312–321.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit11"><label>11</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Malinova R., Malina Y. 1988. Pryzhok v proshloye: Eksperiment raskryvaet tainy drevnikh epoch. (Transl. from Czech). Moscow: Mysl.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Malinova R., Malina Y. 1988. Pryzhok v proshloye: Eksperiment raskryvaet tainy drevnikh epoch. (Transl. from Czech). Moscow: Mysl.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit12"><label>12</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Medvedev A.F. 1966. Ruchnoye metatelnoye oruzhiye (luk i strely, samostrel) VIII–XIV vv. Moscow: Nauka. (SAI; iss. El-36).</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Medvedev A.F. 1966. Ruchnoye metatelnoye oruzhiye (luk i strely, samostrel) VIII–XIV vv. Moscow: Nauka. (SAI; iss. El-36).</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit13"><label>13</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Novikov A.V., Baranov V.S., Novikova O.V. 2014. Arkheologicheskiye issledovaniya istoricheskikh gorodov Kostromskogo kraya, iss. 1. Kostroma: Operativnaya poligraﬁya.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Novikov A.V., Baranov V.S., Novikova O.V. 2014. Arkheologicheskiye issledovaniya istoricheskikh gorodov Kostromskogo kraya, iss. 1. Kostroma: Operativnaya poligraﬁya.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit14"><label>14</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O. 2003. Informatsionnye vozmozhnosti kollektsii kozhanoi obuvi (po materialam raskopok v Moskve). Rossiyskaya arkheologiya, No. 2: 17–30.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O. 2003. Informatsionnye vozmozhnosti kollektsii kozhanoi obuvi (po materialam raskopok v Moskve). Rossiyskaya arkheologiya, No. 2: 17–30.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit15"><label>15</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O. 2006. Obuv Moskovskoi zemli XII–XVIII vv. Moscow: IA RAN. (Materialy okhrannykh arkheologicheskikh issledovaniy; vol. 7).</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O. 2006. Obuv Moskovskoi zemli XII–XVIII vv. Moscow: IA RAN. (Materialy okhrannykh arkheologicheskikh issledovaniy; vol. 7).</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit16"><label>16</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O. 2014. Srednevekovaya obuv i drugiye izdeliya iz kozhi (po materialam raskopok v Moskovskom Kremle). Moscow: Akteon.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O. 2014. Srednevekovaya obuv i drugiye izdeliya iz kozhi (po materialam raskopok v Moskovskom Kremle). Moscow: Akteon.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit17"><label>17</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O. 2017. Kollektsiya izdeliy iz kozhi iz raskopok v Zaryadie (predvaritelnye itogi). In Arkheologiya Podmoskoviya, iss. 13. Moscow: IA RAN, pp. 199–226.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O. 2017. Kollektsiya izdeliy iz kozhi iz raskopok v Zaryadie (predvaritelnye itogi). In Arkheologiya Podmoskoviya, iss. 13. Moscow: IA RAN, pp. 199–226.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit18"><label>18</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O. (in press). Kozhanyi kolchan iz raskopok v Moskve.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O. (in press). Kozhanyi kolchan iz raskopok v Moskve.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit19"><label>19</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O., Chernaya M.P. 2016. Kollektsiya kozhanykh izdeliy iz raskopok Tomskogo kremlya. Rossiyskaya arkheologiya, No. 4: 138–150.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O., Chernaya M.P. 2016. Kollektsiya kozhanykh izdeliy iz raskopok Tomskogo kremlya. Rossiyskaya arkheologiya, No. 4: 138–150.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit20"><label>20</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O., Likhter Y.A. 2004. Sistemnoye opisaniye i klassifikatsiya kozhanoi obuvi (metodicheskiye rekomendatsii). Moscow: IA RAN.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O., Likhter Y.A. 2004. Sistemnoye opisaniye i klassifikatsiya kozhanoi obuvi (metodicheskiye rekomendatsii). Moscow: IA RAN.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit21"><label>21</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Osipov D.O., Tataurov S.F., Tikhonov S.S., Chernaya M.P. 2017. Leather artifacts from Tara, Western Siberia, excavated in 2012–2014. Archaeology, Ethnology and Anthropology of Eurasia, vol. 45 (1): 112–120.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Osipov D.O., Tataurov S.F., Tikhonov S.S., Chernaya M.P. 2017. Leather artifacts from Tara, Western Siberia, excavated in 2012–2014. Archaeology, Ethnology and Anthropology of Eurasia, vol. 45 (1): 112–120.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit22"><label>22</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Oyateva E.I. 1973. Belozerskaya kozhanaya obuv (Prilozheniye). In Golubeva L.A. Ves i slavyane na Belom ozere v X–XIII vekakh. Moscow: Nauka, pp. 199–205.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Oyateva E.I. 1973. Belozerskaya kozhanaya obuv (Prilozheniye). In Golubeva L.A. Ves i slavyane na Belom ozere v X–XIII vekakh. Moscow: Nauka, pp. 199–205.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit23"><label>23</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Polnoye sobraniye russkikh letopisei. 2001. Vol. VIII: Letopis po Voskresenskomu spisku. 2nd ed. Moscow: Yazyki russkoi kultury.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Polnoye sobraniye russkikh letopisei. 2001. Vol. VIII: Letopis po Voskresenskomu spisku. 2nd ed. Moscow: Yazyki russkoi kultury.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit24"><label>24</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Sattarova L.I. 2004, Kazanskaya uzornaya kozha. Moscow: Kultura i traditsiya.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Sattarova L.I. 2004, Kazanskaya uzornaya kozha. Moscow: Kultura i traditsiya.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit25"><label>25</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Travmatologiya i ortopediya. 2013. G.M. Kavalersky, A.V. Garkavi (eds.). Moscow: Akademiya.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Travmatologiya i ortopediya. 2013. G.M. Kavalersky, A.V. Garkavi (eds.). Moscow: Akademiya.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit26"><label>26</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Vizgalov G.P., Parkhimovich S.G., Kurbatov A.V. 2011. Mangazeya. Kozhanye izdeliya (materialy raskopok 2001–2007 gg.). Yekaterinburg: AMB.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Vizgalov G.P., Parkhimovich S.G., Kurbatov A.V. 2011. Mangazeya. Kozhanye izdeliya (materialy raskopok 2001–2007 gg.). Yekaterinburg: AMB.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref><ref id="cit27"><label>27</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Vlasova I.V. 2001. Razvitiye severnogo kompleksa narodnoi odezhdy (XII– XVIII vv.). In Russkiy Sever. Etnicheskaya istoriya i narodnaya kultura XII–XX vv. Moscow: Nauka, pp. 301–305.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Vlasova I.V. 2001. Razvitiye severnogo kompleksa narodnoi odezhdy (XII– XVIII vv.). In Russkiy Sever. Etnicheskaya istoriya i narodnaya kultura XII–XX vv. Moscow: Nauka, pp. 301–305.</mixed-citation></citation-alternatives></ref></ref-list><fn-group><fn fn-type="conflict"><p>The authors declare that there are no conflicts of interest present.</p></fn></fn-group></back></article>
